Belongings: The Kyrgyz were originally nomads and this seems to
have inculcated into their culture a totally different sense of privacy
and belongings than encountered in the West, a fact compounded by rampant
poverty – especially in the rural regions.. As always in such circumstances,
exposimg your wealth is asking for trouble. Don’t show large sums of money
– keep you dollars hidden, and if possible have only local currency in small
denominations. You should be careful with valuable possessions.
Clothing: Even if the people of Kyrgyzstan (especially in the North)
are far more relaxed about religion than muslims elsewhere – you should
still be aware of local sensibilities. In the larger towns, especially Bishkek,
and the Northern regions, the people are much more weternised and more used
to foreigners in their midst. Fashions such as shorts, short skirts, halter
tops and bare chests are not likely to encounter outright opposition – but
it is probably wise to dress cautiously so as to avoid offending people.
Incidentally, in many regions if can be quite cool (if not cold) especially
at night – so remember to bring something warm, such as a sweater.
Gestures: To attract attention raise your hand and say “kechiresiz”
– or more simply : “oy”
To apologise the Kyrgyz place their right hand, palm flat against the chest
– sometimes they use both hands. This gesture is also sometimes used when
serving tea or when welcoming someone.
You beckon someone the whole hand is used – not just a single finger …
the hand is held palm up and the fingers are repeated curled and unfurled.
To pinch your cheek, or rub your cheek in a downward motion, is used to
signify that someone has done something bad, or shameful.
Greetings: Shaking hands – men shake hands – but usually women do
not. (A recent trend is for business women to shake hands). Men often shake
with both hands to show respect – the left hand patting the top of the other
persons hand – although there are variations … one man may shake with the
right hand whilst tapping the other person’s shoulder with his left hand
and, in the South, men might shake with the right hand holding his left to
his breast. Don’t shake hands across a thresh-hold.
When women meet they usually bow slightly – even from afar. They sometimes
greet each other by touching right cheeks without actually kissing – although
an older woman may place a kiss on the cheek of a younger woman. It is considered
polite for younger and foreign women to kiss elderly women on the cheek.
Meals:
Blowing your nose at the table: should be avoided – if you feel
the need to sneeze or blow you your nose, turn away from the table or -
better still – make an excuse and leave the table.
Eating with hands: several dishes, such as Beshbarmak and manti,
are eaten with the hands – remember to use your right hand – never touch food
with your left hand.
Omin: In some homes a meal may begin with a prayer – but every Kyrgyz
meal ends with “Omin” – the Islamic equivalent of “amen”. The hands are
brought up to the face and the palms brought down in front ot it as if washing
the face – saying the word “omin”.
Seating plans: in a large gathering the most respected or eldest
male sits at the head of the table and then others are placed in descending
order of rank. Women tend to sit together at the far side of the table. In
Southern Kyrgyzstan, men and women may eat in separate rooms.
Toasts: at meals alcohol will often be served - if not pressed on
you. You will be expected to give a toast and drinking to the health of
your host and his family will be greatly appreciated. When drinking vodka
- watch your hosts - Russians tend to drain their glasses - "down in one"
- and so do many Kyrgyz but a lot of Kyrgyz only drink half the glass.
Photographs and cameras: photographs are prized possessions. Not
everyone has a camera and interest may be shown – especially if you have a
dgital or ‘Polaroid’ (instant camera). Photographs make excellent presents.
Pointing (for example in giving directions), should be done with
either the index finger or with the open palm.
Prices: in shops the prices are fixed – but in bazaars a certain
amount of bargaining may be expected. Don’t expect, however, to knock a lot
of the price, however, and renenber that the sums involved are usually quite
small.
Respectful terms of address : older men are addressed with the honorific
title “baike”, and older women with “eje”
Shoes: when entering private homes it is usual to remove shoes.
Smoking: the Kyrgyz – like most Asian peoples – do smoke. Kyrgyzstan
was a major producer of aromatic tobacco and there are some local manufacturers.
In addition herbs are sometimes smoked – but although you may well see Marijuana
plants growing wild – don’t be tempted … it is illegal and can have serious
consequences.
Spitting: the situation in Kyrgyzstan is not as bad as in China
– but don’t be too surprised if you see people – even those who look like
respectably dressed businessmen – spit in the street.
Staring: Strangers, everywhere, attract attention – and that is
true in Kyrgyzstan as well, especially in the rural regions where foreigners
are not frequently encountered - although it is not as marked as, say, in
China. Although it may be unnerving and you should “keep your wits about
you” – it usually simply reflects a natural curiosity.
Time and timekeeping: The Kyrgyz were originally nomads and this
seems to have inculcated into their culture a totally different sense of time
than in the west – which is much much more relaxed. It can be one of the
attractions – but it can also be very frustrating. In Russian there is a
phrase (chas) which can me can mean now, within an hour, in an hour’s time
– or simply wait. This often means that things are ready at the agreed time
– and schedules should not be too tight or demanding. Travelling times can
also be longer than originally thought. Do not think that a journey of 300
kilometers will take 3 hours as in many Wester countries. Apart from anything
else, many of the roads are through mountainous regions and traveling can
be slower than on good roads.
Tipping and gifts: The Kyrgyz were nomads and are very hospitable
and tipping is not common – although is always welcome in restaurants etc.,
where Western tourists are more frequently encountered. As part of this
culture, however, it was usual for visitors to leave something behind as
a gift and, for example at a homestay, a small gift – something small from
home : photogaphs, postcards, a pen – are much appreciated and will be prized.
If you are a guest at someone’s home for a meal you should take something
small (e.g. fruit, something to drink, some chocolate) with you as a gift.
Toilets: Public toilets are “few and far between” … and in many
cases, especially outside the cities. will be of the “squat” variety. Even
these come in different forms … some may simply be a hole in the ground.
Almost all will smell. Even where you find pedestal toilets – don’t be too
surprised about the conditions – e.g. if there is no toilet seat.
Travelling in cars : usually women and children travel in the back seat
– not in the front – even if there is no-one else in the car.