National cuisine
Food is a question of taste - as the saying goes: «One man's
meat is another man's poison». Don't expect the food in Kyrgyzstan to
be the highlight of your trip - but that does not mean that you have
landed up in a culinary wasteland!
Kyrgyzstan stood on the crossroads of the Silk Road, and the
caravan routes which crossed the territory carried not only goods for
trade, but also brought examples of various cultures: Turkish, Persian,
Arabian, Indian, Chinese, Russian, and European and these mingled with
the culture and traditions of Central Asia. As a result Kyrgyz cuisine
has absorbed elements from all of the cultures with which it came into
contact, and although many dishes that you will find are common throughout
Central Asia, it is still possible to find examples that have preserved
their original, national identity. In many areas, such as Bishkek, Russian
cuisine is common, but it is now possible to find examples from all over
the world, including the all embracing «European», Indian, Korean, Turkish
and Chinese. Outside the cities local dishes, (such as Kyrgyz, Uzbek and
Dungan) are more common.
It is said that the food in Central Asia falls into three different
types: the subsistence diet of the once nomadic peoples such as the Kyrgyz
(mainly meat, milk products and bread); the diet of settled Turkish peoples
(the Uzbeks and Uigurs) including pilafs, kebabs, noodles and pasta,
stews and elaborate pastries and breads; and dishes which come from the
South (Iran, India, Pakistan and China) with more seasoning and herbs.
In Kyrgyz culture many dishes used to have special, ritual importance,
and be connected with particular calendar holidays. Although these
dishes are of great interest, unfortunately, many of them are being
forgotten, and have fallen into disuse whilst some, which formerly had
ritual contents, have lost their initial meaning and are progressively
turning into every-day dishes.
Meat is central to Kyrgyz cooking - the nomadic way of life did
not allow for the growing of fruit and vegetables - which means that
vegetarian visitors may find it difficult to find dishes that meet their
needs.
Traditionally the Kyrgyz are a very hospitable people. If a Kyrgyz
family invites you for a meal then you should take a small gift - nothing
lavish, for example fruit or flowers.
Beshbarmak. For Kyrgyz people beshbarmak
is not only a dish - it is a whole ceremony with own traditions and
customs. The sheep is usually killed, cut in to pieces and boiled
in iron fleshpot till bullion is ready for drinking and ribs meat
– for sharing between participants of table. This dish consists of
home-made noodle with shortcut boiled meat which usually is eaten with
hands (besh barmak means five fingers in kyrgyz).
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Kuiruk-boor - slices of boiled lamb fat
with pieces boiled lamb liver and spices.
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Kuurdak - small pieces fried lamb or veal
with onion and spices are served with greens on the big plate.
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Lagman - is a rich spicy stew with chopped
meat, vegetables and spices, poured over long hand-made noodles. The noodles
can be eaten with a fork and the gravy with a spoon. Lagman is served in
individual bowls.
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Manty - steam done pies from pastry likely
fist size with stuffing from lamb (or sometimes pumpkins), onion and spices,
usually eaten with the fingers. A word of warning — watch out for the
hot, liquid fat that can come squirting out from them. Also, sometimes
the meat can be fatty, or gristle. Manty is usually served on individual
plates (3-5 pieces) and could be dressed with sour cream.
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Oromo - This is not usually found in restaurants,
but a Kyrgyz family may serve you it. It can be prepared with meat, or
as a vegetarian dish. Potatoes, onions and carrots are shredded and spread
onto a mat of rolled out pastry, which is then rolled into roulette and steamed
in a special pan called a kazgun (In Kyrgyz «oromo» means «roulette»).
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Pilau - rice mixed with boiled,
or fried meat, onions and carrots (and sometimes other ingredients such
as raisins), all cooked in a semi-hemispherical metal bowl called a
kazan over a fire. Pilau is a favorite dish in the South and is served
to honored guests - the meal is not considered over until it has been
served.
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Samsa - Samsy (in the plural)
are baked meat dumplings often cooked in a tandyr (clay oven). Once again,
be warned of the heat and fatty juice that squirts out when you bite into
one.
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Chuchvara - is meat dumplings of minced
meat, onion and spices in dough. It is boiled in a broth with some meat.
It is served hot in bowls and eaten with a spoon. Sour cream can be served
as a dressing.
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Shashlyk or Kebabs (barbeque)
- meat cubes on skewers cooked over the embers of burning twigs. Mutton
is the meat usually used, but it is possible to find beef, chicken, liver
and even pork shashlyk. The meat may simply be freshly sliced or may have
been marinated overnight. Be warned, if the meat is mutton, then almost
certainly one of the pieces on the skewer will be pure fat … the dripping
fat onto the burning embers is thought to enhance the taste). Shashlyk
is usually served with a sprinkling of raw onion, vinegar and lepeshki.
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Shorpo - is a hot oily broth
with chunks of meat, potatoes and carrots. It is could be seasoned with
greens and is served in individual bowls and eaten with a spoon. Large
chunks of meat on the bones can be eaten with hands.
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Boorsoks - pieces of dough, deep fried
in boiling oil - is a traditional table "decoration". They are produced
in large quantities and spread over the dastarhan or table at every major
celebration.
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Chuchuk – fat salami made of mutton.
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Chak-chak – sweat meal of fried dough
with honey.
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Ashlan-foo - a spicy dish made with
cold noodles, jelly, vinegar and eggs.
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Bliny - (a Russian dish), pancakes,
rolled and filled with meat, tvorak (a sort of cottage cheese), or jam.
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Pirojki - flat dough filled with meat,
potatoes, cabbage or sometimes nothing at all — sold by street sellers.
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Pelmeni - a from of Russian ravioli
which can be served in a bouillon (or broth) or without, and usually
smetana (sour cream).
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Drinks
Tea and Coffee - tea (black or green)
is common and comes in various forms and is usually made strong and mixed
with hot water when served. It may well be served in a bowl rather than
a cup. Coffee is more likely to be instant served, without milk.
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Arak (Kyrgyz for Vodka) the most common
and popular form of hard alcohol - watch out for Samogonka - home made
vodka. When drinking vodka - watch your hosts - Russians tend to drain their
glasses - «down in one» - and so do many Kyrgyz - but a lot of Kyrgyz only
drink half the glass.
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Cognac - Kyrgyz Cognac is the local
form of brandy. It comes in various qualities some of which are quite
good.
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Champagne - dryish and crisp when well
cooled.
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Wine - Kyrgyzstan does grow grapes
and does produce wine. Most of it fairly sweet and not to the visitors«taste.
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Beer - many brands of imported beers
are now available and a German-Kyrgyz joint venture produces Steinbrau,
a German type beer brewed locally in Bishkek. Most local brands are cheaper
but do not keep well and need to be drunken - «fresh» (i. e. within three
days).
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Kymyz - fermented mare’s milk, is an
acquired taste. Kumys is sold from the roadside throughout the country
in the summer but it is best from the herders themselves in more remote
mountain regions such as around Son-Kul. Refusing a drink of kumys can
cause offence. The milk is poured into a vessel made from a cleaned
sheep»s skin, which has been smoked by burning pine branches to give
the drink a special smell and taste and it is beaten periodically with
a special stick called a «bishkek». The traditional way of making koumiss
is for mare«s milk to be stored in animal skins (chinach), which has
been cleaned and smoked over a fire of pine branches to give the drink
a special smell and taste. One third of yesterday»s milk is mixed with
new milk and allowed to ferment in the warmth of the yurt. It is then
churned, beaten with a wooden stick (a bishkek) and becomes alcoholic
before turning into lactic acid. In the 1840"s, Russian doctors discovered
that kumys had curative properties and used it for treating tuberculosis,
anaemia, chronic lung diseases and gynecological and skin diseases. Some
16 special sanatoria were established which treated patients with lots
of fresh air, exercise and koumiss. They served a number of famous people
including members of the imperial family, Leo Tolstoy, Maxim Gorky, and
even a minor British Member of Parliament who made the journey to Central
Asia especially to undergo the treatment. Unfortunately, traditional kumys
can be stored for only up to three days, so production is limited to the
milking period of mares. To solve this problem, a method of producing pasteurized
kumys was developed allowing treatment all year round, and even export. A
special facility has recently started for the production of pasteurized
kumys in the Naryn region.
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Bozo - an alcoholic drink made from
boiled, fermented millet grains resembling beer.
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Jarma - beverage is made from fermented
barley and is used usually in summer time.
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Maksym - (
Shoro is a brand name
which is sold from Barrels on Bishkek streets) — is a wheat based drink
that Kyrgyz like to drink in the summer.
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Airan (also known as Kefir) - is a
milk drink that resembles drinking yogurt.
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Water - In Bishkek the tap water is
generally safe to drink, but if you have a delicate stomach, or are concerned
then boil the water. Bottled mineral water is available throughout the
country but tends to be carbonated and a little salty, and can be an
acquired taste.
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Bread - In Bishkek there is a wide range of
breads available. Outside the cities, the flat, round lepeshka is found
almost everywhere. Fresh, warm, straight from the tandyr (a clay oven)
it is particularly pleasant. At meals it is usually broken, not cut with
a knife and never placed on the table upside down.
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Meat - The most common form of meat is used
in Kyrgyz cuisine is mutton. Sheep have a high place in Kyrgyz culture
and the Kyrgyz use every part of the animal for something. Sheep meat
tends to be more fatty than that from other animals, and so it should be
no surprise that fatty meat is often considered to be the best. (There
is even a Kyrgyz saying - «Cheap mutton has little fat»). In some households
and festivals the Sheep«s head, (the eyes in particular), may be offered
to an honoured guest. Horsemeat is also highly revered and for special
occasions and funerals it is common for a horse to be slaughtered and
the cooked and presented to guests. Only young mares are used which have
been fed on Alpine grasses, which are thought to give the meat a particularly
good flavour. A great favourite in the countryside, (but also available
in Bishkek) is chuchuk - a sort of sausage made from horsemeat. Beef is
also found, but less often. The Kyrgyz rarely uses chicken - chickens
being found among settled peoples rather than nomads. Pork is not used
by the Kyrgyz, but can be found in Chinese and Russian restaurants.
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Fish - Fresh fish are caught in the
lakes such as Son-Kul and Issyk Kul. Popular are the dried and smoked
fish that are sold by the roadside near Issyk-Kul.
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Fruit and Vegetables - most of the
produce is grown locally and seasonal and there is a wide variety —
although recently more exotic fruits and vegetables are imported and
available in the markets. You can encounter fresh produce, cooked, dried
and preserved (jams/pickles etc.) Nuts are also very popular.
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Honey is very popular - and in the mountains
the traveller can come across a solitary trailer, or a cluster of five
or six gathered together, packed with and surrounded by beehives. The
owner will happily sell a litre of fresh mountain honey (but you should
have your own container if possible).
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Food and traditions which are connected
with it. Kyrgyz food is important ethic and cultural event.
Butchery had certain role in establishing of composition of their
food. Food of Kyrgyz people had season character. Meat and dairy
dominated in food ration. Cereal products as part of ration began to
appear in the process of settling down of nomads and transition to
agriculture. Food went through some changes as a result of influence
from cuisine of Uzbek, Taji, Dungan, Uigur, Russian, Ukrainian and
other nationalities at the end of 19 and first half of 20 centuries.
It is necessary to say about the influence Russian and Ukrainian food
on formation Kyrgyz cuisine in Chyi and Issyk-kyl zones. Tradition
Kyrgyz food, customs, ceremonies connected with preparing of food and
its application, had specific characteristics. The main ingredient
of Kyrgyz nourishment is dairy food: unskimmed sour milk -
juurat;
sour milk -
airan; cottage cheese from boiled milk
bysh tak;
balls from pressed and dry cottage cheese -
kurut, its varieties
-
kainatkan kurut and
tuzdatkan kurut; cheese -
ish;
cottage cheese from goats or sheep milk -
ejigey, cream -
kaimak;
butter -
mai, melted butter -
sary mai and etc.
Kymys
is done from mare milk by way of effervescence. Dishes from camel and yak
milk were also used wide. There were a lot of dishes in Kyrgyz cuisine
where the main ingredients were dairy products -
katyktait. During
winter time
kurut was used as thickener and it flavoured to this
food. Broth is usually was mixed with sour milk as
airan and
kymys
and called as
ak serke,
chygyr and etc.
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There is widespread kind of cereal alcohol drink -
bozo,
which is prepared from millet, barley and corn. It is drunk only
by adults in the winter. The custom of drinking tea had been established
in Kyrgyz tradition cuisine substantially. There were a unique way
of making tee with adding oil fried flour, salt, milk –
kuurma tea
and its variety -
ak tea.
Kyrgyz people like eating sheep, horse, camel, goat, yak
meat. The most appreciated sorts of meat are lamb and horseflesh.
It is preferable on big crowded feasts. Dishes from mutton are separated
into 2 kinds: dishes from inner parts as lungs and stomach -
jorgom;
from shortcut liver and fat with added blood -
byjy; dish is
made of boiled in milk lungs –
olobo or
kuigan opko. Kyrgyz
people ate meat when it was boiled in the main -
byshkan et; fried
meat
kuurdak usually had less popularity and was not given to
guests. Boiled meat is usually given with broth –
shorpo, the dish
is prepared from shortcut pieces of meat -
naryn,
tuuralgan et.
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Mutton pieces are shared according to status of guests.
The most respected guests are given a head -
bash, then
iliac bone -
jambash, then thigh-bone -
joto or
chukolu
jilik, femur -
kashka jilik, radius -
kar jilik,
scapula -
daly, ribs -
kabyrga (exepting ribs from the
front part of the carcass
kara kabyrga). Coccyx - (
kuimulchak)
and brisket - (
tosh) were given to only women. Young daughters
– in law were given bone from knee to ankle - (
kun jilik).
Sacrum - (
ucha), ribs - (
kaburga), sausage
from meat and fat (
chuchuk), mane - (
jal) , which are
made from horseflesh were given to very respected guests.
Vegetal food consisted of wheat, corn, rice, millet, oat.
Some dishes were prepared from entire seeds of groats and flour.
They are different porridges - (
kojo,
botko,
atala),
pottages - (
umach,
maksum,
jarma) and etc. Pastry
dishes (
kumur ta mak) – late event in Kyrgyz culture and can
be met in next dishes as
kesme kojo,
gulcho,
jaoma
ash,
kesme atala.
Bread products
tokoch or
nan are consisted
from next sorts: bread which called l
epeshka from sour pastry
- (
komoch); short pastry lepeshka -
kattama, lepeshka
from sour unleavened pastry -
cha batu; fried in fat circular
lepeshkas with sections in the center -
mie tokoch,
chelpek,
chozmo. In the south of Kyrgyzstan baked bread in tandyr (glay
stove for making baked bread and pies) got wide spread.
Boorsoky
- fried in fat or butter pieces of sour (or short) pastry, deserved exclusive
regard.
Kyrgyz people always practiced the provision of products
lay in store. They provided dried dairy products, butter, meat. Meat,
destined for the provision, they called as
sogum or
kushka
sogum and kept it in dry, smoked or jerked condition.
Kulazyk
- shortcut dried or fired in fat with oatmeal meat - was prepared as
the provision for far way or war trip in ancient time.
There is entire range of customs and traditions in Kyrgyzstan,
rising with their roots to the ancient time and connects with cooking
and eating food. While boiling meat in fleshpot - radius (
karjilik)
should be put in pot firstly and then the others parts of carcase.
While eating meat, guests usually make themselves cose
in groups of 2-3-4 people and eat meat strictly from their plates.
Every guest is given pieces of matton (
jilikter), which is required
and satisfied to social or parental status. The head of sheep is never
given to a woman. There is a custom to leave piece of meat to servants
or host`s children -
ustukan, and also small quantity of meat
(
tuuragan et -
tabak typ,
keshik should be left
for women - servants. If someone did not obey to these rules he was
judged by society and could loose his respect. People clean their hands
before eating without going out of Kyrgyz house – yurta. For this purpose
young teenager is usually used .He has to start pore the water from laft
to righ around the circle and after the meal - in backward direction or
from center to door. Partakers of feast could use knives of every guest
if they did not take their own ones. The knife in this case was given
by grip ahead. If knife was given back to owner, that a piece of meat
was stuck on the pike of knife and given back in upright position, this
custom was called as
bychak obolgosu.
There were some ritual dishes. For instance, in honour
of New Year -
Noorus people usually prepared porridge from
sprouted wheat -
chon keje or
sumelek and it was eaten
by all village community. All Kyrgyz tables included bread product
boorsok, because it was ritual.
In happy denouement of life collisions and hardships people
organized
tuloo, baked oily lepeshkas and gave them away
toguz tokoch,
baabedin.
There were group treat in kyrgyz culture and called as
sherne,
ulush,
joro,
dengene,
bash
tanmie. Customs and rites and hylic Kyrgyz culture identified his
national and ethic feature. In condition of traditional society they
had conclusive meaning.
In contemporary conditions ethic - cultural traditions
were transformed strongly. Leading tendency of cultural development
is urbanization and Europeanization. According to data of populace census,
in 1999 city Kyrgyz populace composed 40% from number of all Kyrgyz
populace. Literacy amongst kyrgyz people constitutes 100%. These facts
become to be very important on plan of accelerated development of society
and globalization. However, ethic traditions continue to exist even
in transformed shape.
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