National cuisine
Food is a question of taste - as the saying goes: «One man's meat
is another man's poison». Don't expect the food in Kyrgyzstan to be the
highlight of your trip - but that does not mean that you have landed up
in a culinary wasteland!
Kyrgyzstan stood on the crossroads of the Silk Road, and the caravan
routes which crossed the territory carried not only goods for trade,
but also brought examples of various cultures: Turkish, Persian, Arabian,
Indian, Chinese, Russian, and European and these mingled with the culture
and traditions of Central Asia. As a result Kyrgyz cuisine has absorbed
elements from all of the cultures with which it came into contact, and
although many dishes that you will find are common throughout Central Asia,
it is still possible to find examples that have preserved their original,
national identity. In many areas, such as Bishkek, Russian cuisine is common,
but it is now possible to find examples from all over the world, including
the all embracing «European», Indian, Korean, Turkish and Chinese. Outside
the cities local dishes, (such as Kyrgyz, Uzbek and Dungan) are more common.
It is said that the food in Central Asia falls into three different
types: the subsistence diet of the once nomadic peoples such as the Kyrgyz
(mainly meat, milk products and bread); the diet of settled Turkish peoples
(the Uzbeks and Uigurs) including pilafs, kebabs, noodles and pasta, stews
and elaborate pastries and breads; and dishes which come from the South
(Iran, India, Pakistan and China) with more seasoning and herbs.
In Kyrgyz culture many dishes used to have special, ritual importance,
and be connected with particular calendar holidays. Although these dishes
are of great interest, unfortunately, many of them are being forgotten,
and have fallen into disuse whilst some, which formerly had ritual contents,
have lost their initial meaning and are progressively turning into every-day
dishes.
Meat is central to Kyrgyz cooking - the nomadic way of life did not
allow for the growing of fruit and vegetables - which means that vegetarian
visitors may find it difficult to find dishes that meet their needs.
Traditionally the Kyrgyz are a very hospitable people. If a Kyrgyz
family invites you for a meal then you should take a small gift - nothing
lavish, for example fruit or flowers.
Beshbarmak. For Kyrgyz people beshbarmak
is not only a dish - it is a whole ceremony with own traditions and
customs. The sheep is usually killed, cut in to pieces and boiled in
iron fleshpot till bullion is ready for drinking and ribs meat – for
sharing between participants of table. This dish consists of home-made
noodle with shortcut boiled meat which usually is eaten with hands (besh
barmak means five fingers in kyrgyz).
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Kuiruk-boor - slices of boiled lamb fat with
pieces boiled lamb liver and spices.
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Kuurdak - small pieces fried lamb or veal
with onion and spices are served with greens on the big plate.
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Lagman - is a rich spicy stew with chopped meat,
vegetables and spices, poured over long hand-made noodles. The noodles
can be eaten with a fork and the gravy with a spoon. Lagman is served in
individual bowls.
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Manty - steam done pies from pastry likely
fist size with stuffing from lamb (or sometimes pumpkins), onion and spices,
usually eaten with the fingers. A word of warning — watch out for the
hot, liquid fat that can come squirting out from them. Also, sometimes
the meat can be fatty, or gristle. Manty is usually served on individual
plates (3-5 pieces) and could be dressed with sour cream.
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Oromo - This is not usually found in restaurants,
but a Kyrgyz family may serve you it. It can be prepared with meat, or as
a vegetarian dish. Potatoes, onions and carrots are shredded and spread onto
a mat of rolled out pastry, which is then rolled into roulette and steamed
in a special pan called a kazgun (In Kyrgyz «oromo» means «roulette»).
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Pilau - rice mixed with boiled,
or fried meat, onions and carrots (and sometimes other ingredients such
as raisins), all cooked in a semi-hemispherical metal bowl called a kazan
over a fire. Pilau is a favorite dish in the South and is served to honored
guests - the meal is not considered over until it has been served.
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Samsa - Samsy (in the plural) are
baked meat dumplings often cooked in a tandyr (clay oven). Once again, be
warned of the heat and fatty juice that squirts out when you bite into one.
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Chuchvara - is meat dumplings of minced
meat, onion and spices in dough. It is boiled in a broth with some meat.
It is served hot in bowls and eaten with a spoon. Sour cream can be served
as a dressing.
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Shashlyk or Kebabs (barbeque) -
meat cubes on skewers cooked over the embers of burning twigs. Mutton is
the meat usually used, but it is possible to find beef, chicken, liver and
even pork shashlyk. The meat may simply be freshly sliced or may have been
marinated overnight. Be warned, if the meat is mutton, then almost certainly
one of the pieces on the skewer will be pure fat … the dripping fat onto
the burning embers is thought to enhance the taste). Shashlyk is usually
served with a sprinkling of raw onion, vinegar and lepeshki.
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Shorpo - is a hot oily broth with
chunks of meat, potatoes and carrots. It is could be seasoned with greens
and is served in individual bowls and eaten with a spoon. Large chunks
of meat on the bones can be eaten with hands.
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Boorsoks - pieces of dough, deep fried
in boiling oil - is a traditional table "decoration". They are produced
in large quantities and spread over the dastarhan or table at every major
celebration.
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Chuchuk – fat salami made of mutton.
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Chak-chak – sweat meal of fried dough with
honey.
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Ashlan-foo - a spicy dish made with cold
noodles, jelly, vinegar and eggs.
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Bliny - (a Russian dish), pancakes, rolled
and filled with meat, tvorak (a sort of cottage cheese), or jam.
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Pirojki - flat dough filled with meat,
potatoes, cabbage or sometimes nothing at all — sold by street sellers.
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Pelmeni - a from of Russian ravioli which
can be served in a bouillon (or broth) or without, and usually smetana
(sour cream).
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Drinks
Tea and Coffee - tea (black or green) is
common and comes in various forms and is usually made strong and mixed
with hot water when served. It may well be served in a bowl rather than
a cup. Coffee is more likely to be instant served, without milk.
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Arak (Kyrgyz for Vodka) the most common
and popular form of hard alcohol - watch out for Samogonka - home made vodka.
When drinking vodka - watch your hosts - Russians tend to drain their glasses
- «down in one» - and so do many Kyrgyz - but a lot of Kyrgyz only drink
half the glass.
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Cognac - Kyrgyz Cognac is the local form
of brandy. It comes in various qualities some of which are quite good.
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Champagne - dryish and crisp when well
cooled.
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Wine - Kyrgyzstan does grow grapes and
does produce wine. Most of it fairly sweet and not to the visitors«taste.
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Beer - many brands of imported beers are
now available and a German-Kyrgyz joint venture produces Steinbrau, a German
type beer brewed locally in Bishkek. Most local brands are cheaper but
do not keep well and need to be drunken - «fresh» (i. e. within three days).
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Kymyz - fermented mare’s milk, is an acquired
taste. Kumys is sold from the roadside throughout the country in the summer
but it is best from the herders themselves in more remote mountain regions
such as around Son-Kul. Refusing a drink of kumys can cause offence. The
milk is poured into a vessel made from a cleaned sheep»s skin, which has
been smoked by burning pine branches to give the drink a special smell and
taste and it is beaten periodically with a special stick called a «bishkek».
The traditional way of making koumiss is for mare«s milk to be stored
in animal skins (chinach), which has been cleaned and smoked over a fire
of pine branches to give the drink a special smell and taste. One third
of yesterday»s milk is mixed with new milk and allowed to ferment in the
warmth of the yurt. It is then churned, beaten with a wooden stick (a bishkek)
and becomes alcoholic before turning into lactic acid. In the 1840"s, Russian
doctors discovered that kumys had curative properties and used it for treating
tuberculosis, anaemia, chronic lung diseases and gynecological and skin
diseases. Some 16 special sanatoria were established which treated patients
with lots of fresh air, exercise and koumiss. They served a number of
famous people including members of the imperial family, Leo Tolstoy, Maxim
Gorky, and even a minor British Member of Parliament who made the journey
to Central Asia especially to undergo the treatment. Unfortunately, traditional
kumys can be stored for only up to three days, so production is limited to
the milking period of mares. To solve this problem, a method of producing
pasteurized kumys was developed allowing treatment all year round, and even
export. A special facility has recently started for the production of pasteurized
kumys in the Naryn region.
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Bozo - an alcoholic drink made from boiled,
fermented millet grains resembling beer.
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Jarma - beverage is made from fermented
barley and is used usually in summer time.
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Maksym - (
Shoro is a brand name
which is sold from Barrels on Bishkek streets) — is a wheat based drink
that Kyrgyz like to drink in the summer.
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Airan (also known as Kefir) - is a milk
drink that resembles drinking yogurt.
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Water - In Bishkek the tap water is generally
safe to drink, but if you have a delicate stomach, or are concerned then
boil the water. Bottled mineral water is available throughout the country
but tends to be carbonated and a little salty, and can be an acquired taste.
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Bread - In Bishkek there is a wide range of breads
available. Outside the cities, the flat, round lepeshka is found almost
everywhere. Fresh, warm, straight from the tandyr (a clay oven) it is particularly
pleasant. At meals it is usually broken, not cut with a knife and never
placed on the table upside down.
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Meat - The most common form of meat is used in
Kyrgyz cuisine is mutton. Sheep have a high place in Kyrgyz culture and
the Kyrgyz use every part of the animal for something. Sheep meat tends to
be more fatty than that from other animals, and so it should be no surprise
that fatty meat is often considered to be the best. (There is even a Kyrgyz
saying - «Cheap mutton has little fat»). In some households and festivals
the Sheep«s head, (the eyes in particular), may be offered to an honoured
guest. Horsemeat is also highly revered and for special occasions and funerals
it is common for a horse to be slaughtered and the cooked and presented
to guests. Only young mares are used which have been fed on Alpine grasses,
which are thought to give the meat a particularly good flavour. A great
favourite in the countryside, (but also available in Bishkek) is chuchuk
- a sort of sausage made from horsemeat. Beef is also found, but less often.
The Kyrgyz rarely uses chicken - chickens being found among settled peoples
rather than nomads. Pork is not used by the Kyrgyz, but can be found in Chinese
and Russian restaurants.
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Fish - Fresh fish are caught in the lakes
such as Son-Kul and Issyk Kul. Popular are the dried and smoked fish that
are sold by the roadside near Issyk-Kul.
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Fruit and Vegetables - most of the produce
is grown locally and seasonal and there is a wide variety — although recently
more exotic fruits and vegetables are imported and available in the markets.
You can encounter fresh produce, cooked, dried and preserved (jams/pickles
etc.) Nuts are also very popular.
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Honey is very popular - and in the mountains the
traveller can come across a solitary trailer, or a cluster of five or six
gathered together, packed with and surrounded by beehives. The owner will
happily sell a litre of fresh mountain honey (but you should have your
own container if possible).
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Food and traditions which are connected
with it. Kyrgyz food is important ethic and cultural event. Butchery
had certain role in establishing of composition of their food. Food
of Kyrgyz people had season character. Meat and dairy dominated in food
ration. Cereal products as part of ration began to appear in the process
of settling down of nomads and transition to agriculture. Food went
through some changes as a result of influence from cuisine of Uzbek,
Taji, Dungan, Uigur, Russian, Ukrainian and other nationalities at the
end of 19 and first half of 20 centuries. It is necessary to say about
the influence Russian and Ukrainian food on formation Kyrgyz cuisine in
Chyi and Issyk-kyl zones. Tradition Kyrgyz food, customs, ceremonies connected
with preparing of food and its application, had specific characteristics.
The main ingredient of Kyrgyz nourishment is dairy food: unskimmed sour
milk -
juurat; sour milk -
airan; cottage cheese from boiled
milk
bysh tak; balls from pressed and dry cottage cheese -
kurut,
its varieties -
kainatkan kurut and
tuzdatkan kurut; cheese
-
ish; cottage cheese from goats or sheep milk -
ejigey,
cream -
kaimak; butter -
mai, melted butter -
sary mai
and etc.
Kymys is done from mare milk by way of effervescence. Dishes
from camel and yak milk were also used wide. There were a lot of dishes
in Kyrgyz cuisine where the main ingredients were dairy products -
katyktait.
During winter time
kurut was used as thickener and it flavoured
to this food. Broth is usually was mixed with sour milk as
airan
and
kymys and called as
ak serke,
chygyr and etc.
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There is widespread kind of cereal alcohol drink -
bozo,
which is prepared from millet, barley and corn. It is drunk only by
adults in the winter. The custom of drinking tea had been established
in Kyrgyz tradition cuisine substantially. There were a unique way of
making tee with adding oil fried flour, salt, milk –
kuurma tea
and its variety -
ak tea.
Kyrgyz people like eating sheep, horse, camel, goat, yak meat.
The most appreciated sorts of meat are lamb and horseflesh. It is preferable
on big crowded feasts. Dishes from mutton are separated into 2 kinds:
dishes from inner parts as lungs and stomach -
jorgom; from shortcut
liver and fat with added blood -
byjy; dish is made of boiled
in milk lungs –
olobo or
kuigan opko. Kyrgyz people ate meat
when it was boiled in the main -
byshkan et; fried meat
kuurdak
usually had less popularity and was not given to guests. Boiled meat
is usually given with broth –
shorpo, the dish is prepared from
shortcut pieces of meat -
naryn,
tuuralgan et.
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Mutton pieces are shared according to status of guests. The
most respected guests are given a head -
bash, then iliac
bone -
jambash, then thigh-bone -
joto or
chukolu jilik,
femur -
kashka jilik, radius -
kar jilik, scapula -
daly,
ribs -
kabyrga (exepting ribs from the front part of the carcass
kara kabyrga). Coccyx - (
kuimulchak) and brisket - (
tosh)
were given to only women. Young daughters – in law were given bone from
knee to ankle - (
kun jilik).
Sacrum - (
ucha), ribs - (
kaburga), sausage from
meat and fat (
chuchuk), mane - (
jal) , which are made
from horseflesh were given to very respected guests.
Vegetal food consisted of wheat, corn, rice, millet, oat.
Some dishes were prepared from entire seeds of groats and flour. They
are different porridges - (
kojo,
botko,
atala),
pottages - (
umach,
maksum,
jarma) and etc. Pastry
dishes (
kumur ta mak) – late event in Kyrgyz culture and can be
met in next dishes as
kesme kojo,
gulcho,
jaoma ash,
kesme atala.
Bread products
tokoch or
nan are consisted from
next sorts: bread which called l
epeshka from sour pastry -
(
komoch); short pastry lepeshka -
kattama, lepeshka from
sour unleavened pastry -
cha batu; fried in fat circular lepeshkas
with sections in the center -
mie tokoch,
chelpek,
chozmo.
In the south of Kyrgyzstan baked bread in tandyr (glay stove for making
baked bread and pies) got wide spread.
Boorsoky - fried in fat or
butter pieces of sour (or short) pastry, deserved exclusive regard.
Kyrgyz people always practiced the provision of products
lay in store. They provided dried dairy products, butter, meat. Meat,
destined for the provision, they called as
sogum or
kushka
sogum and kept it in dry, smoked or jerked condition.
Kulazyk
- shortcut dried or fired in fat with oatmeal meat - was prepared as
the provision for far way or war trip in ancient time.
There is entire range of customs and traditions in Kyrgyzstan,
rising with their roots to the ancient time and connects with cooking
and eating food. While boiling meat in fleshpot - radius (
karjilik)
should be put in pot firstly and then the others parts of carcase.
While eating meat, guests usually make themselves cose in
groups of 2-3-4 people and eat meat strictly from their plates. Every
guest is given pieces of matton (
jilikter), which is required
and satisfied to social or parental status. The head of sheep is never
given to a woman. There is a custom to leave piece of meat to servants
or host`s children -
ustukan, and also small quantity of meat (
tuuragan
et -
tabak typ,
keshik should be left for women - servants.
If someone did not obey to these rules he was judged by society and could
loose his respect. People clean their hands before eating without going
out of Kyrgyz house – yurta. For this purpose young teenager is usually
used .He has to start pore the water from laft to righ around the circle
and after the meal - in backward direction or from center to door. Partakers
of feast could use knives of every guest if they did not take their own
ones. The knife in this case was given by grip ahead. If knife was given
back to owner, that a piece of meat was stuck on the pike of knife and
given back in upright position, this custom was called as
bychak obolgosu.
There were some ritual dishes. For instance, in honour of
New Year -
Noorus people usually prepared porridge from sprouted
wheat -
chon keje or
sumelek and it was eaten by all village
community. All Kyrgyz tables included bread product
boorsok,
because it was ritual.
In happy denouement of life collisions and hardships people
organized
tuloo, baked oily lepeshkas and gave them away
toguz tokoch,
baabedin.
There were group treat in kyrgyz culture and called as
sherne,
ulush,
joro,
dengene,
bash tanmie. Customs
and rites and hylic Kyrgyz culture identified his national and ethic
feature. In condition of traditional society they had conclusive meaning.
In contemporary conditions ethic - cultural traditions were
transformed strongly. Leading tendency of cultural development is
urbanization and Europeanization. According to data of populace census,
in 1999 city Kyrgyz populace composed 40% from number of all Kyrgyz
populace. Literacy amongst kyrgyz people constitutes 100%. These facts
become to be very important on plan of accelerated development of society
and globalization. However, ethic traditions continue to exist even
in transformed shape.
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